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崇明土布在叙事性布书中的设计实践

Design Practice of Chongming Homespun in Narrative Fabric Book

作者:徐静怡
  • 学号
    2021******
  • 学位
    硕士
  • 电子邮箱
    107******com
  • 答辩日期
    2024.05.23
  • 导师
    张宝华
  • 学科名
    艺术
  • 页码
    87
  • 保密级别
    公开
  • 培养单位
    080 美术学院
  • 中文关键词
    崇明土布;活态传承;叙事性布书
  • 英文关键词
    chongming homespun; living heritage development; narrative fabric book

摘要

崇明土布,在崇明当地被称作“老布”,曾深度地融入崇明人的生产生活,但在现代社会却成了压箱底的老物件。作为上海市级非物质文化遗产,崇明土布拥有悠久的历史背景与深厚的文化内涵,但在当下的传承发展却进入了瓶颈期。纺织技艺传承难及土布市场热度持续走低是崇明土布正面临的困境。如何通过设计赋能,令织造精良、配色讲究、库存甚巨的崇明土布重新走入现代人的生活,实现活态化传承发展,是亟待解决的问题。本文依据相关文献资料及笔者田野调查成果,梳理了崇明土布的起源与发展,规格与种类,介绍了崇明土布的织造工序、文化内涵及色织土布典型纹样的寓意、构成特点及色彩特征。笔者通过对崇明土布展开市场调研与田野调查,总结出叙事角度转换、设计理念更新、文创产品转型三种土布活化途径。出于对叙事的兴趣,笔者选择从新叙事的角度出发,将叙事性布书作为载体,解读崇明土布在现代性社会中的文化价值与情感价值,以吸引更多年轻人开始了解并关注崇明土布。该叙事性布书是一本可翻阅的大尺寸布艺绘本。该布书综合运用了拼布、刺绣、印染等工艺制作,并通过隐喻讲述了一个关于女性自我成长与自主选择的故事。本研究通过具体的设计实践,探索了纺织材料与工艺的叙事方式,发现了崇明土布活态传承的新方向,探寻了传统工艺在现代性社会生存的新可能。

Chongming homespun, locally known as "old cloth", has been deeply integrated into the production and life of Chongming people, but in the modern society has become the bottom of the old objects. As the Shanghai Municipal Intangible Cultural Heritage, chongming homespun has a long historical background and deep cultural connotations, but in the current inheritance and development has entered a bottleneck. Difficulty in passing down the textile skills and the continued decline in the market for homespun are the dilemmas that chongming homespun is facing. How to be empowered by design, so that well-woven, color-coordinated, huge inventory of chongming homespun re-entered the life of modern people, to realize the living heritage development, is an urgent problem.Based on the relevant literature and the results of the author‘s field survey, this paper compiles the origin and development, specifications and types of Chongming Homespun, introduces the weaving process, cultural connotation and the symbolism, composition and colour characteristics of the typical patterns of colour-woven Homespun. Through the market research and field survey on Chongming Homespun, the author concluded that there are three ways to revitalise Homespun, namely, the conversion of narrative angle, the renewal of design concept and the transformation of cultural and creative products. Out of the interest in narrative, the author chooses to start from the perspective of new narrative, using narrative fabric book as a carrier to interpret the cultural and emotional value of Chongming Homespun in the modern society, in order to attract more young people to start to understand and pay attention to Chongming Homespun.This narrative fabric book is a large format, reversible, illustrated fabric book. The fabric book integrates the production of quilting, embroidery, printing and dyeing, and tells a story about women‘s self-growth and autonomous choices through metaphors. Through specific design practices, this study explores the narrative of textile materials and crafts, discovers a new direction for the living heritage of Chongming Homespun, and explores new possibilities for the survival of traditional crafts in a society of modernity.