装饰纹样作为一个时期美学成就的重要标志，不仅体现着当时的审美取向及技艺水平，更是浓缩着政治经济兴衰的时代缩影。宋代时思想文学、审美情趣乃至百姓的生活品位都进入了一个全新的发展阶段，宋代装饰纹样也应运呈现一片繁荣景象，在中国纹样整体发展脉络中占有举足轻重的地位。这一时期，受折枝花鸟绘画影响，写实风格的植物纹样崛起成为纹样的新兴力量，其中折枝花纹样更是以其“一枝见天地”的理学风范与文人气韵，成为宋代纹样成就代表之一，在服饰织物、手工艺器物、建筑雕刻、壁画等多领域中广泛应用，经久不衰。本研究以宋代服饰织物中的折枝花纹样为主要研究对象，特别着眼于其构图程式，对纹样造型手法，排列规律等做出详尽细致分析，此外创新性地融合了对折枝花鸟绘画的分析研究，辅助理解折枝纹样的发展和部分造型。基于出土实物图像资料和文字记载等，运用文献分析法与比较研究法，首先，对折枝花纹进行概念界定，并研究其发展转变过程；其次，运用案例研究法与归纳分析法，通过大量案例分析总结折枝花艺术表现特征，集中目光于折枝绘画与纹样构图程式，挖掘扭转连续的花枝形态背后直观的规律范式；而后针对现代女装中花卉纹样的各类应用手法进行总结，为设计实践提供纹样转化的借鉴。最后，将以上结论融合进实践当中，使用宋代折枝花纹样构图规则与现代的简约之感结合，提出女装设计方案。一则为图案设计提供启发性的思考，二则争取拓宽折枝花纹样的应用范围，延续其在现代审美环境下的生命力。助力新中式女装发展，推动传统纹样的繁荣复兴，顺应弘扬中国文化的时代旋律，提高民族文化自信，将中华优秀传统文化推向更广阔的舞台。
As a significant symbol of the aesthetic accomplishments of an era, decorative patterns not only mirror the aesthetic direction and technical proficiency of that time, but also encapsulate the essence of the period's political and economic fluctuations. The Song Dynasty witnessed a new stage in the development of the ideology, literature, aesthetic value, and even people's taste for life. and decorative patterns in this period also presented a prosperous scene, occupying a pivotal position in the overall development of China's patterns. During this period, realistic plant patterns emerged as a new force influenced by the flower and bird paintings. Among them, the f broken branch pattern, with its Neo-Confucian style and literati charm, stands as a representative achievement of Song Dynasty patterns, embodying the essence of "seeing the universe in a single branch", which is widely used in many fields such as clothing, textile, handicraft objects, architectural sculpture design and so on.The main object of this study is the broken branch pattern in Song Dynasty clothing and textile, especially focusing on its compositional rules, and makes a detailed analysis of the pattern shape design techniques, arrangement rules, etc. In addition, the analysis of the broken branch flower and bird paintings are integrated to assist the understanding of the development of the broken branch pattern. Based on the image data and written records of the unearthed objects, this paper firstly defines the concept of the broken branch pattern by means of literature analysis and comparison, and studies its development and transformation process. Secondly, it summarizes and analyzes the artistic performance characteristics of broken branch flowers, focuses on broken branch paintings and broken branch pattern composition, to explore the intuitive pattern behind the curved and continuous flower form. Thirdly, the research classifies the application methods of flower patterns in modern women's wear to provide reference for pattern transformation in design practice. Finally, the above conclusions are integrated into practice, innovatively combining the Song Dynasty broken branch pattern composition rules and simple modern sense to propose the application of women's wear. This research aims to not only provide enlightening thinking for pattern design, but also strive to broaden the application range of broken branch pattern and continue its vitality in the modern aesthetic environment. Also, it will help the development of new Chinese women's wear, promote the prosperity and revival of traditional patterns, and conform to the melody of The Times of promoting Chinese culture. Furthermore, it will improve the self-confidence of national culture, and push the excellent traditional Chinese culture to a broader stage.
