中国龟背纹样因轮廓形似“龟”而得名，多数学者认为六边形纹样属外来可能性极大，随丝绸之路的发展而传入中原，并与历朝历代的文化和审美相结合不断演变发展，展现出其极强的包容性特点。龟背纹样既可以作为独立装饰纹样，亦可作为骨架纹样与其他图案组合成为装饰纹样，因而既具有六边形几何纹样的严谨规整，又兼得内容纹样的故事性，视觉效果生动灵气，极有韵律感和层次感。本论采用文献研究法、图像分析法和案例分析法对中国龟背纹样的溯源、朝代分期、纹样形态进行梳理和研究，总结形态特征和发展规律，探析不同文化背景和审美对其影响。在历史研究的基础上对具有龟背纹样的当代服装作品进行分类，并进一步分析作品案例何提取、转化和使用龟背纹样。通过历史研究和案例研究，结合当代服装穿着语境、工艺和审美，找到中国龟背纹样应用于当代女装上的可创新之处，并以此作为设计实践的出发点。在中国龟背纹样创新设计实践的过程中，保留龟背纹的内容性，并对内部填充图案进行再设计，采用激光切割工艺和穿插套叠表现手法，实现龟背纹样从平面效果至立体效果的转变。设计实践尽可能调和传统纹样的历史性和当代审美，发挥龟背纹样的装饰作用的同时兼具服装实穿性能。
The Chinese tortoiseshell pattern is named because its outline looks like a turtle. Most scholars believe that the hexagonal pattern is highly likely to be foreign. It was introduced into the Central Plains with the development of the Silk Road, and constantly evolved and developed in combination with the culture and aesthetics of the past dynasties, showing its strong inclusive characteristics. Chinese tortoiseshell pattern can be used as an independent decorative pattern, or as skeleton pattern combined with other patterns to become decorative pattern, so it not only has the rigorous regularity of hexagonal geometric pattern, but also has the story of content pattern, visual effect is vivid, has a sense of rhythm and hierarchy.In this paper, literature research method, image analysis method and case analysis method are adopted to comb and study the origin, dynasty stages and pattern forms of Chinese tortoiseshell patterns, sum up the morphological characteristics and development rules, and explore the influence of different cultural backgrounds and aesthetics on them. On the basis of historical research, this paper classifies contemporary clothing works with Chinese tortoiseshell patterns, and further analyzes how to extract, transform and use Chinese tortoiseshell pattern s in work cases.Through the above, combined with the wearing context, process and aesthetics of contemporary clothing, the author finds the innovation of Chinese tortoiseshell pattern applied to contemporary women‘s clothing, and takes this as the starting point of design practice. The series retains its content and redesigns the skeleton internal pattern. An excellent use of artistic techniques like overlaying, interlude, and laser cutting technology has creatively turned the tortoiseshell pattern into a three-dimensional effect. The design practice tries its best to reconcile the historical and contemporary aesthetics of traditional patterns, and give full play to the decorative role of tortoise-back patterns while having the practical performance of clothing.
