明代袍服在中华民族的服装史上有着鲜明的朝代特色，其典型的结构特征、大气的图案刺绣和吉祥的文化内涵，使得它即使在今天也被众多汉服爱好者追捧，其“摆”结构更是明代袍服的典型代表结构之一。受前元少数民族服饰影响，明代的袍服体量增大，形成了一些新样式。洪武元年二月壬子，诏复衣冠如唐制。明服前期承唐宋之制，衣身较为瘦小，直至后期，官袍腰线以下的侧缝整体呈现向外“膨胀”的面貌。部分明代袍服腰线以下与侧缝相接处外接或内接面料，以增大袍服活动量、改变袍服内外的造型，从而形成了独具特色的“摆”。 本文着眼于明代袍服“摆”之结构，先对明代袍服与摆结构进行介绍与定义，分析其历史起源与功能，发现由于受到胡风之影、缺胯之风与织造之限的影响，“摆”结构得以产生；同时，由于它综合了明代官人对于实用性、装饰性与象征性的三重需求，因此得以流行。之后，依据摆的特点将摆进行分类，并根据摆结构相关的历史文献资料，依次阐述出摆、内摆、褶摆、组合摆与开摆的类型特征、结构特点，将其进行整合、梳理与归纳，探究“摆”后世的发展与延续，并总结其适合的设计手法：拆解组合法、装饰映衬法与空间扩充法。最后，参考这三种设计手法，采用夸张的表达方式，结合“春来”的概念，将摆结构进行设计实践。

The robes of the Ming Dynasty have distinctive dynastic characteristics in the clothing history of the Chinese nation. Its typical structural features, atmospheric pattern embroidery and auspicious cultural connotations make it sought after by many Hanfu lovers even today, and its hem structure is more It is one of the typical representative structures of robes in the Ming Dynasty. Influenced by the costumes of ethnic minorities in the Yuan Dynasty, the robes of the Ming Dynasty increased in size and formed some new styles. In February of the first year of Hongwu, Renzi was ordered to restore the clothes and hats as the Tang system. In the early period of the Ming Dynasty, it inherited the system of the Tang and Song Dynasties, and the body of the garment was relatively thin. Until the later period, the side seams below the waistline of the official robe showed an overall outward expanded appearance. Some of the robes of the Ming Dynasty were inlaid or inlaid with fabrics at the joints below the waistline and side seams to increase the activity of the robes and change the shape of the inside and outside of the robes, thus forming a unique structure: hem.This article focuses on the hem structure of Ming Dynasty robes. Firstly introduces and defines the Ming Dynasty robes and hem structure, analyzes their historical origins and functions, and finds that due to the influence of Hu, the popularity of slits, and the limitation of weaving, the hem structure came out. It became popular because it synthesized the triple needs of officials in the Ming Dynasty for practicality, decoration and symbolism. According to the characteristics of hem, it is classified as external hem, inner hem, pleated hem, combined hem and open hem. Then I summarize its suitable design methods: dismantling and combination method, decoration contrast method and space expansion method. In the end, I refer to these design techniques, use exaggerated expressions, and combine the concept of "Spring Steps" to practice the design of the hem structure.