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月份牌画中的民国服饰艺术研究

Research on Costume Arts of the Republic of China in the Posters of calendar

作者:王珺英
  • 学号
    2014******
  • 学位
    博士
  • 电子邮箱
    747******com
  • 答辩日期
    2020.05.22
  • 导师
    陈池瑜
  • 学科名
    艺术学理论
  • 页码
    196
  • 保密级别
    公开
  • 培养单位
    080 美术学院
  • 中文关键词
    月份牌,服装,图像,艺术,文化
  • 英文关键词
    Calendar Picture,Costume,Image,Art,Culture

摘要

月份牌是民国时期中西文化交流与碰撞的商业艺术表现,其中的绘画图像包含了丰富的民国民俗资料,涵盖了衣、食、住、行各方面,形象地记录了民国社会生活的现代化变迁。到20世纪20至30年代,月份牌画发展到了鼎盛期,此时也正是民国服饰形制发展的完备期,而月份牌中的人物图像恰好折射出当时的服饰风貌。月份牌作为市井渗透性和影响力最为成功的服装画,对民国时期顺应潮流的穿衣时尚给予了充分的展现,尤其是对于女性的服饰,无论是中式的服装,还是西化的服装,从头到脚,从发型、首饰到皮包、高跟鞋,无一不逼真地记录下来。因而,本文尝试通过月份牌画中的人物图像解析,对月份牌中的服饰进行新的解读和再研究,以风格梳理和审美分析为重点,围绕历史语义和文化特性对月份牌画中的服饰与民国时期的社会文化现象进行研究。本文的研究分为三个层次:一方面通过月份牌中的人物图像,来解读民国童装、男装、女装的具体服装样式及演变,以及与之相关的发型、妆容、面料与图案等内容。由于月份牌中女性形象占有绝大数量,因而对于女性的服饰表现极为充分,基本可以通过月份牌中的女性图像,掌握民国女装概况。月份牌中也有相当数量的儿童形象的表现,但以西式打扮为多见,中式着装少。至于男性形象在月份牌中则刻画极少。因而,对于儿童服装与男性服装将月份牌图像与老照片等图像资料及文献资料比较研究。另一方面,月份牌画是中国近代流行服饰的缩影,是近代服饰演变的历史见证,其中不仅能见到服装具体款式的演变,也反映了民国时期新的审美观念和价值取向,以及东西方文化、传统与现代文化的碰撞与交融生发出的丰富文化内涵。因此,本文将深入挖掘月份牌服饰图像中隐含的更加深层的艺术现象与文化规则,探讨月份牌中的服饰与海派文化、大众文化及时尚文化等关联。再者,本文基于对月份牌图像中的民国服饰研究,深入探讨民国在短短几十年中的服饰转型问题。民国是中国服饰发展历史中最为重要的变革阶段,千年的古代衣冠制度被推翻,并完成了由中式向西式,由传统到现代的过渡。在顺应时代发展的过程中,民国的儿童服装、男装与女装都分别形成了各自的服饰文化,在审美趣味、思维方式和价值理念上都具有时代特点,并对当代中国服装发展具有借鉴和重要启示。

Calendar Picture is both a commercial and artistic presentation of the exchanges and collisions of the western and Chinese cultures in the Republic of China era. The pictures and images in this art form cover abundant and various materials about the folk custom in the Republic of China era, such as those basic necessities of life- food, clothing, shelter and transportation. And it also vividly records the trend of modernization of the social life in this period. The development of the Calendar Picture was at its zenith from 1920s to 1930s. Meanwhile, this period was also the completion stage of the development of the style and designs of the clothing in the Republic of China era. Besides, the figure images of the Calendar Picture happened to reflect the clothing styles and features of that time. As the most successful fashion illustration in terms of public permeability and influence, the Calendar Picture fully presents the clothing fashion which conforms to the historical trend of that time. Besides, it especially illustrates the dress and personal adornment of women. It records almost everything vividly in this field ranging from Chinese-style clothes to western-style clothes, from head to foot, from hairstyle, ornaments to handbags and high-heeled shoes. Thus, the author will try to interpret and research the dress and personal adornment of the Calendar Picture from a new perspective by interpreting the figure images in these Calendar Pictures. And then the author will further study the art and culture of the dress and personal adornment within the Republic of China era. This article is divided into three aspects. On the one hand, this article covers the interpretation of the evolution process of the detailed clothing styles of man, women and children, plus the related hairstyle, make-up, material and patterns in the Republic of China era through analyzing the figure images within the Calendar Picture. The female dress and adornment is fully presented due to the large amount of female images depicted on the Calendar Picture. The basic facts of the women’s dress during that period of time could basically be known through analyzing the female images in these Calendar Pictures. There are quite amount of pictures which depict children in the Calendar Picture. But most of the children are dressed in western style rather than the Chinese style. However, there are only few male images depicted on the Calendar Picture. Thus, the research of children and male clothing is conducted through comparing the images of the Calendar Picture with other image data, such as the ancient photos. On the other hand, the Calendar Picture is an epitome of the trending dress and adornment of the modern China as well as the historical witness of the evolution of the modern dress and adornment. It not only reflects the detailed evolution of the clothing style, but also mirrors the new esthetic sense and value orientation in the Republic of China era. What’s more, it also covers the rich cultural connotation which is formed by the collision and integration of western culture and Chinese culture as well as of traditional culture and modern culture. Thus, the author will further dig the deeper artistic phenomena and cultural rules hidden in the dress and adornment images of the Calendar Picture. Besides, the author will also explore deeply the transition of the dress and adornment style during these few decades in the Republic of China era based on the research and study of the dress and adornment of this period of time on the Calendar Picture. The Republic of China period is the most important period of reforming in terms of the development of the dress and adornment styles in China. It not only ends the ancient hat and clothes system which held a history of over a thousand years. The children clothing, male clothing and female clothing formed their own costume cultures during the process of conforming to the times. Their esthetic tastes, thinking modes, and value concepts are equipped with features of the times, which provide significant reference and inspiration to the development of the clothing field in China.