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侘寂美学在女装设计中的应用研究

The Wabi Sabi aesthetics in Fashion Design Womenswear

作者:刘宝婷
  • 学号
    2015******
  • 学位
    硕士
  • 电子邮箱
    bao******com
  • 答辩日期
    2018.05.23
  • 导师
    臧迎春
  • 学科名
    艺术
  • 页码
    61
  • 保密级别
    公开
  • 培养单位
    080 美术学院
  • 中文关键词
    侘寂,东方美学,女装设计
  • 英文关键词
    Wabi Sabi,Oriental Aesthetics,Fashion Womenswear

摘要

“侘寂”(wabi sabi)这一东方美学概念,通常被表述为“残缺的,无常的,自然的“,主要指的是那些带有时光印记、质朴的本质的美,是一种强调内在精神传达而不强调外表的东方禅意的美。从源头上看,侘寂美学源自中国的禅宗,呈现的是一种枯、涩、静、寂之状,这种质朴的东方美学引人发省,修养身心感悟生命的深层意义。侘寂美学以简朴静慢的生活方式给人心理上的安宁,是一种在喧嚣浮躁社会背景下寻找初心的设计。它的美学特征以不完美、残缺、朴拙、自然、浸透时光流淌痕迹等元素为主,内敛含蓄静雅,简单中蕴含了人与人、人与物、人与环境甚至人与自己心灵之间的相处哲学。侘寂美学是对日本影响深远的美学思想,日本将中国的禅宗发扬并传承下来,在传统与现代、东方与西方之间找到了恰到好处的结合,日本注重向世界优秀国家外来文化学习的态度以及对自然资源近乎于“吝啬”的节约环保理念对于当今时代设计师有很大的借鉴与学习意义,我们应探索侘寂美学在服装设计中的巧妙应用,结合本土文化特质设计出契合消费者心理需求又符合当前流行的优秀作品。本文从侘寂美学的美学理念及历史渊源入手,调研分析侘寂美学在当代不同设计门类中的应用现状,并将优秀品牌案例进行分析总结,探寻侘寂美学在当代服装设计中的现实社会意义,并提取侘寂美学的设计元素作为视觉符号,采用环保材质,在女装设计中加以运用,实现东方文化的良好传承,使接下来的系列服装设计体现侘寂美学的理念并在喧嚣快节奏时代中带给人们心灵的片刻宁静,提倡现代人以一种更为简约的生活态度缓解浮躁的精神世界。

As a concept of oriental aesthetics, “Wabi Sabi” is often described as “incomplete, impermanent, and natural", which mainly refers to a kind of pristine beauty with the imprint of time. It is a beauty of Oriental Zen, which emphasizes the internal spiritual transmission instead of the exterior appearance. The aesthetics of Wabi Sabi is originated from the Zen of China; and the word literally presents a withered, astringent, silent and still picture. This simple oriental aesthetics is very profound and inspiring in the cultivation of both the body and mind and the perception of life. Wabi Sabi stands for a simple, calm and gentle way of life, which offers people inner peace. It is a design aiming to help people find their original aspiration in a noisy and impetuous society. It mainly features imperfect, plain, natural elements that run over with traces of time. It is reserved, implicit and elegant, which contains the philosophy of human relationship with other people, objects, the environment, and even their own hearts. Japan has developed and inherited the Zen from China, and found a way suitable for their own national conditions between tradition and modern, East and West. Japan’s sincere attitude of learning from outstanding foreign cultures and its strict concept of environmental protection and conservation of natural resources are of great referential value for modern designers. We should explore the ingenious design of Wabi Sabi in fashion design, and create excellent works which meet the consumer's psychological needs as well as the current trends, based on the features of local culture.This paper started out from the aesthetic concept and historical origin of Wabi Sabi , according to the current market demand, the paper investigated the application of Wabi Sabi in different design categories, analyzed and summarized the outstanding brand cases in order to explore the realistic and social significance of Wabi Sabi in contemporary fashion design. Besides, taking the design elements of Wabi Sabi aesthetics as visual symbols, together with environmentally-friendly materials, the author tried to apply them to the design of women's clothing to better inherit the oriental culture, to infuse the concept of Wabi Sabi into the series of costume designs coming out later and to bring people a moment of tranquility and comfort in the fast-paced world by calling for a simpler attitude towards life to ease the impetuous spiritual world.