服装是京剧中的重要艺术表现手段,不仅仅是展现角色的外在形象,更是一种表达人物内心情感,升华精神境界的方式。作为一种高度写意的艺术手法,京剧服装有着严格的程式规制,其制作技艺也形成了一套完整的体系。京剧作为中华民族的国粹艺术,将其元素运用到现代服装设计当中有着重大的文化意义和价值。本文以传统京剧男蟒制作工艺为切入点,首先对京剧服装的历史发展,制作条件、工具等进行了介绍,而后主要通过图文并茂的方式记录和分析了京剧男蟒的制作工艺流程与步骤等,并通过梳理京剧蟒袍制作工艺不同历史时期的变革,分析其产生变革的原因,探究京剧服装制作工艺未来传承与创新的方向。在设计应用部分进一步探究男蟒制作工艺在女装设计领域的发展潜力和应用价值。通过毕业设计的实践,验证男蟒制作工艺在服装设计中的应用和研究具有现实意义,赋予传统工艺当代性和新的生命力。
Costume is one of the important expression measures of Beijing Opera which not only could demonstrate figures external appearance but also is a method to show figures’ internal emotion and spiritual sublimation. As a high-degree comfortable artistic expression, Beijing Opera costume has the strict patterns and regulations and its manufacture also formed a set perfected system. Beijing Opera, Chinese national quintessence of Chinese culture, plays a significant role and value in applying their elements into the modern clothes design.This paper, regarding traditional Beijing Opera Nanmang manufacture techniques as the entry point, firstly introduces Beijing Opera costumes’ historical development, manufacture conditions and tools, then records and analyzes Beijing Opera Namang manufacture technique flow and step through picture and its accompanying essays. Finally, by virtue of collecting various Beijing Opera embroidered robe manufacture reforms in various historical periods, it analyzes its reform reasons and explores Beijing Opera costumes manufacture techniques future development direction. In the design part, it further discusses Namang manufacture technique;s development prospect and application value in cloth design field. Through graduate design practices, the author verified the its application’s real significance in clothes design and endows traditional techniques with modern and new vitality.