本文是关于洛丽塔时尚消费群体的社会认同研究。洛丽塔时尚是一种发源于日本的亚文化时尚风格，传播到中国后，消费者自发地聚合成群，以虚拟社区为核心，形成了一个女性青年亚文化消费群体。本文主要运用虚拟民族志的研究方法，一方面在网络虚拟社区进行了长期的参与观察，同时也参加了群体的线下聚会活动，获得了大量的一手资料；另一方面对35名群体成员进行了半结构化访谈。意图通过实证研究，回答以下问题：洛丽塔时尚是如何建构出来的？消费者为什么会接受这种服装风格？在群体中是否有一种主观的身份和社会认同，认同的表现是什么，又是如何形成的？研究发现，洛丽塔时尚是商家和大众传媒联合建构出来的结果，迎合了部分中产阶级青年女性的消费诉求，她们运用洛丽塔风格塑造了一种符号化的女性形象，通过符号消费与群体交往，形成了“lo娘”这一群体身份，建立了积极的社会认同，在群体中获得了归属感和安全感。这种认同不仅改变了成员的消费方式和行为准则，并且形成了一种集体情感和价值观。在洛丽塔时尚消费中，群体的价值观和规范处于相对核心的地位，成员接受并认可群体的价值观和规范，更多地是出自于群体成员自发地自我约束和维护，令有秩序的组织得以成为可能。群体成员往往把洛丽塔风格作为提高自身女性气质的手段，这种对古典贵族生活方式的向往和保持年轻外貌的需求也是对现实社会压力的逃避。
The present study looks into the social identity of the consumer groups of Lolita Fashion, a fashion style of subculture which derives in Japan. After it spreads to China, local customers voluntarily came into a subculture consumer group of female youth and their activities center around a virtual community.With an approach of virtual ethnography, the present study on the one hand conducts long-period observation of the virtual community as well as the group members’ offline gatherings and collects rich primary data. On the other hand, the study includes 35 semi-structured interviews of the members in this group. Based on the empirical research, the study aims to address three specific questions. First, how is the Lolita Fashion constructed? Second, why consumers accept this clothing style? Last but not least, whether is there a shared identity among the group members, how does this identity come into being and in what way does it manifest itself?It is found that Lolita Fashion is constructed by joint forces from the merchants and popular media and caters for the demands of middle-class young females. This consumer group creates a symbolic image through Lolita Fashion. Through their symbolic consumption and group contacts, a group identity of Lolita is formed and positive social identification is constructed. Therefore, each group member can obtain a sense of belonging and security. The social identity not only changes the group members’ patterns of consumption and codes of behavior, but also promotes shared emotion and values. These shared values and codes are further accepted and maintained by each member in a tacit way, and sit at the heart of the consumer group, based on which an ordered organization is able to establish. The group members always take Lolita Fashion as a means of enhancing femininity. Their longing for a classic noble lifestyle and their needs to stay young also can be regarded as an escape from realistic social pressure.
