我国拥有丰富的羽绒资源，羽绒材料质轻保暖，价格低廉，绿色环保，普及范围广，设计空间很大。国内羽绒服行业经历了30多年的发展，羽绒服已经成为人们冬季必备的御寒服装。近年来，市场发展尤其迅速，各类羽绒服品牌日渐增多、规模不断扩大，大众成衣市场竞争激烈，趋于饱和，产品的设计空间和附加值不高，仅从结构、材料上改进已远远不够，需要用创造性的设计思维拓展羽绒材料的应用领域，为市场挖掘新的利益增长点。本文从羽绒服市场的实地调研和网络调研入手，通过对防寒服流行趋势发布会、时装博览会等专业展会以及羽绒服专卖店和商场专柜的调研，对国内外现有的羽绒服品牌及羽绒产品进行了梳理和总结；通过对羽绒服实际穿用人群的观察及消费者调研问卷的借鉴和分析，从穿用者的角度寻找现有羽绒服设计上存在的问题，挖掘新的消费需求；通过对羽绒服设计师及品牌拥有者的访谈，深入剖析行业现状并探讨具有现实意义及发展空间的设计方向。在对调研、访谈结论进行归纳和思考的基础上，设计实践环节将羽绒服设计的理论意义和市场价值结合，制定出具有针对性的设计方案，满足符合中高端消费者生活方式的消费需求，将羽绒服从大众成衣领域拓展到鲜有尝试的礼服领域和尚未饱和的配饰领域。运用人体工学原理，在对低温较敏感的肩部、背部、腰腹部、膝盖等特殊部位加强充绒量、材质、结构上的保暖设计，放开一些对低温并不敏感的身体部位，使服装整体上厚薄分布适中；运用美学原理调整款式的设计细节与比例，突出女性身体曲线及服装对穿用场合的适应性，使设计兼具使用价值与审美价值。通过对传统羽绒服材料与其他材料的组合实验，进行二次设计，试图在不影响使用功能的前提下，挖掘设计的可能性，在材质上和工艺上有所创新，最终提升羽绒材料和羽绒服的价值感。
China has rich down resources. Known as light, warm, green and environmental material, down has been designed and made into various kinds of products. Down wear industry in China has gone through 30 years of development, today products like down jackets have become essentials in winter. In recent years, together with the rapid development of the industry, more and more brands come into our eyes, which lead a highly competitive ready-to-wear clothes market. However, the style and added-value of downs haven’t expended as quick as the growing number of ready-to-wear clothes. Designs focus on structure and fabric improvements can’t satisfy the consumers any more, to track new profit point for market, creative thinking is needed to be realized in the topic of expanding down materials into new applications.This article starts from field as well as internet research on down market, summarized the existing domestic and foreign down brands and products. According to the analysis on the questionnaire, we try to find design problems of down jacket as the view of consumer. Further step, through interviews with designers and brand owners, we try to understand the industry status and figure out a design direction which has practical significance.Based on the researches and interviews, in the practical parts, we figure out a targeted solution which combines theory and market value of down wear design. In order to meet the high-class consumers’ lifestyle and demand, we significantly expend down jacket from ready-to-wear into evening dresses and accessories. Using ergonomic and aesthetics principles, we strengthen the warmth design on several parts of the body that are sensitive to low temperature, like shoulder, back, waist, knees. Meanwhile we use less amount of down materials and thinner fabric on the other parts of the body, to make the whole piece in an appropriate proportion. Through experiments of combining down and other materials, we try to innovate without affecting the basic function, to ultimately enhance the value of down jackets and down material.
